Phnom Penh is Worth the Trip...

... to Chinatown, at least. There's nothing I love more than an unpretentious, under-the-radar restaurant with really great food. Although Chinatown's Phnom Penh restaurant's been praised by the likes of Julia Child and Anthony Bourdain, it still seems to escape the notice of many locals. I had to nag my friends and family endlessly until I convinced my sister and her boyfriend to check out Phnom Penh with me. And it was seriously worth it. This unique Vietnamese-Cambodian restaurant in the heart of Chinatown an absolute star.

I'd read a few other reviews of Phnom Penh before visiting, so I had a good sense of what to order: the green papaya salad, special chicken wings, butter beef, and a jackfruit "moo shake." My sister got filet beef over rice, and her boyfriend ordered lemongrass short ribs. The much-lauded chicken wings elevate this pub standby to a level even gourmets will appreciate. Loaded with crunchy garlic, cilantro, and green onions, the batter was light a cloud and incredibly crisp. I thought the lemongrass pepper dipping sauce was redolent of bathroom cleaner, but everyone else at the table liked it. I dipped mine in the tangy lime dressing from the papaya salad, which was another standout. The refreshing shredded green papaya and carrot topped with peanuts, fresh herbs, huge succulent prawns, and an addictive sweet and salty Cambodian take on beef jerky really stole the show. The filet beef and the pork ribs were also tender, flavourful, and full of fresh veggies and well-balanced sauce.

What I didn't like--and this surprised me, since the dish was highly recommended by other reviewers--was the butter beef. Thin slices of rare beef, similar to carpaccio and jeweled with cilantro, fan out over a strong, sweet, soy marinade. Unfortunately, the sauce was overpowering and the beef was surprisingly gristly. The overly bitter Vietnamese coffee was another disappointment. The jackfruit moo shake, on the other hand, was so good I have dreams about it. Icy cold and mellow reminiscent of pineapple and passion fruit, it's the perfect foil for a hot afternoon. I didn't detect any actual "moo" in the drink; I'm pretty sure they're mostly fruit and ice. Two shakes, a plate of chicken wings, and a green papaya salad would make an ideal summer lunch for two.

The restaurant is clean and bright and cheerful and packed to the gills with families, couples and business people during peak hours. Service is unobtrusive, considerate, and swift. Dishes run from $6.95-$14.95. The menu has over 200 items, so I'll definitely be back; the garlic pea shoots, prawns with sugar cane, and filet beef on rice with egg sound particularly promising.


Phnom Penh
244 E. Georgia St. in Chinatown
604 682-5777