Zocalo: Big on atmosphere, short on flavour

Zocalo is a Mexican restaurant that recently opened just south of Main and Broadway. It's been taunting me - I love Mexican food, and since the Pacific Northwest is not typically known for good Mexican food, I welcomed the addition. I've been to Mexico and definitely enjoy an authentic Mexican meal, though for some reason, I hadn't ventured through Zocalo's doors until last week. Duly emboldened by a sudden need for mole sauce I grabbed a friend and took the plunge.

Upon entry I was pleased with the intimate and inviting atmosphere. A firework - themed chandelier hangs from the ceiling, and Mexican art lines the walls. The bar has an interesting skull-etched design, and some mellow live music was about to begin. Originally trepidatious, my guard was down, as people able to assemble a lounge like this would certainly serve great meals.

I opened the menu and was a bit upset by the abundance of the trendy chipotle. All the same, I ordered the Papas Diablas for $5.25 to start, and the Chicken Mole Poblano for $15. In due time the potatoes arrived in abundant proportions. I ordered for 2, though this is clearly a dish to be served for 4. The fried nugget potatoes were topped with a light chipotle-based sauce which, though decent, were too dependent on the peppers for flavor.

My entree arrived soon after on a bed of Mexican rice, topped with a traditional chocolate mole sauce with side greens. Unfortunately the famously bold mole flavor had been derailed at some point and ended up being a bland topping for a surprisingly dry breast of chicken.

We paid our gracious server and left somewhat disappointed. Zocalo has a lot of things going for it, namely a great location, decor, and service. Unfortunately the recipes couldn't step up to bat. Hopefully Zocalo gets into the swing of things and improves the quality of the menu, as I can see it having a lot of potential in the right circumstances, and to its credit, the tequila and mezcal list is quite impressive. Tequila fans may have a far better experience than I. Unfortunately though, until things change in the kitchen I'll be in the west end or kits for my mole fix.

Zocalo
2515 Main St.
604-677-3521

530-11pm Tues-Thurs
530-midnight Weekends
11am-3pm Brunch Sat+Sun

PHOTO CREDIT: Courtesy Stephanie Vacher